Dress Codes: what, when and how to buy the civilian clothes you may need for the PODP.

“If I am occasionally a little over-dressed, I make up for it by being always immensely over-educated.”

―Oscar Wilde,The Importance of Being Earnest

A common concern for POD and PRMAS students alike relates to clothing. I am always worried to hear that people have turned up on the course having spent loads of money on clothes they may never end up wearing again. This absolutely does not need to happen!

First things first, if you're not sure, don't buy it! There is time once you arrive to get this right. While Sandhurst is quite specific about what they want, the Army School of Education takes a far more relaxed approach. However, there are certain occasions on the course where you will need to observe a dress code (visits to the Officers' Mess etc).

Next, dress codes are not like uniform! There are expectations but also exceptions. Ultimately, you want to stand out for the right reasons not the wrong reasons and feel as comfortable as possible in any given situation. Just as you are judged by your appearance on parade, you will also be judged by what and how you wear civilian clothes.

I'm going to link to a few websites for ease of use. This is absolutely not prescriptive. However, I hope it is helpful. I will give the reason why I've linked to them where possible. If you're more 'time rich' than 'cash rich', or just have your money tied up in investments at the moment, then I am willing to bet a trip around local charity shops will provide almost all of these items at very affordable prices. Added benefits of doing this include: donating money to good causes, recycling clothes is good for the environment (shout out to the millennials) and, frankly, they don't make clothes like they used to (ok, boomer)!

Some general principals to consider but not necessarily adhere to:

1. Set a budget. Decide how much you want to spend and stick to it. Balance what you'll be paid on the course and what you are likely to spend. Many of these purchases can be put off until you've been paid.

2. Buy cheap, buy twice. There are a lot of caveats to this! Why is it cheap? If heavily discounted then it could be a bargain... Combine this one with your budget, but also consider quality of materials and construction. I will only link things here which are, in my opinion, well-made and good value. Remember that, if you look after them and don't change shape too much, these clothes could last you your entire Army career and further.

3. 'Officers only wear natural fibres.' This one was straight from an Officer on PCCBC in 2015. A reliance on natural fibres: cotton, wool, silk, should generally ensure quality (there's a reason that humans have been using them as clothes for a long time!) That said, you can obviously avoid leather for religious or cultural reasons. Items made of natural fibres tend to be a bit more expensive, so you'll need to factor this in with budget etc.

4. Fashion, style and professionalism. You may think you look awesome now, but when you come to wear the latest trend in five years you could look a bit odd. If you target what is 'classic'; cuts, patterns, materials, the choices you make now will last longer. Also, there is an ingrained conservatism in the Army (especially at higher ranks) which is a bit sceptical of fashionable officers. May be better to leave it for the weekend...

5. It is all in the eye of the beholder! When you go on recruiting visits, some regiments will care about this kind of thing, some won't. Ditto CSMs and Platoon Commanders at Sandhurst. Don't worry too much about any of it, you can always ask a member of staff when you arrive at ASE.

The following dress codes are in order of when you will need them, not how formal they are. Unless otherwise stated, recommendations are valid for both male and female purchases.

Dress Code 1: Suit

Formal (Lounge) Suit

You've already got one as you'll have worn it to Westbury. If you want a new one, TM Lewin is a very good bet (there may even still be a TM Lewin branch at Sandhurst). You also get 15% off if you ask them for their Sandhurst discount (if purchasing online then use the Chat function).

• Colour: Navy or Charcoal are your best bets.

• Material: Wool, cotton, or a blend of the two.

Female

• Style: Matching skirt, trouser or dress suit is acceptable. Jacket must be collared and usually will be single-breasted with two or three buttons. Trousers should be straight cut and reach the tops of the shoes. Cropped or skinny trouser cuts are not acceptable.

• Fit: Traditional rather than trendy; no mixing of textiles (panels etc.)

Male

• Style: While single-breasted with two buttons is currently the norm, double-breasted is fine, as is a three-piece suit.

• Fit: Regular or, at a push Slim. Stay away from Skinny.

Shirts

There are a few good places which often have multi-buy deals and sales, TM Lewin again, Charles Tyrwhitt, or if you want to spend a bit more Thomas Pink has nice detailing. Hawes and Curtis often have multi-buy offers too. Wherever you want to get it from, a couple of things to aim for:

• Cuffs: Double cuff.

• Collar: Classic, avoid cutaway. No button-down collar (the one with the little buttons holes on the collar and little buttons on the shirt).

• Colour: White or light pastel colours (usually blue or pink). Light colour buttons.

• Pattern: Plain is most formal and flexible, you'll need to be very careful with checks or stripes depending on your tie etc.

• Pocket: Avoid

• Fabric: Cotton. Weave doesn't really matter and is up to taste. Some are more breathable, others are warmer.

Female

Blouses of non-cotton material are not appropriate in this order of dress. Buttons should reach to the neck, with the top two buttons left undone. No vest tops or underwear should be visible.

Accessories

• Cuff Links: You will need some with your double cuff shirt! This is a good time to show a bit of personality but make sure that they aren't too large or shiny.

• Watch: Lose the massive Garmin or Casio.

• Tie: Another chance for some personality but remember that you want to stand out for the right reasons! Try to pick something which complements your suit and shirt colour.

• Tie Bar or Clip?: Certainly not mandatory. Here's some advice from GQ if you want to wear one.

• Pocket Square or Handkerchief? You may want to save this for jacket and tie occasions but you are advised not to match it with your tie.

• Belt or Braces? Never both. There are some strong arguments on each side. A belt is a bit of a give-away that your suit isn't tailored. That said, if it has belt loops and you aren't wearing a belt its a give away anyway and looks a bit weird without one. Safe to say, if you're going to wear a belt then ensure it approximately matches your shoes (you can buy reversible leather belts which have a brown and a black side). Braces, arguably, make your legs look longer but can create bulges where you don't want them (or do want them, but not at a formal occasion).

Female

• General: The wearing of cuff links is optional for ladies as is the use of a Pocket Square or handkerchief. It is not appropriate for ladies to wear ties or braces.

• Jewellery: plain stud earrings (1 pair) and necklace are permitted, as are rings on both hands. The general rule is to be understated and matching the sobriety of the dress, so multiple thumb rings, jangly bracelets and several chain necklaces would be inappropriate.

• Hair: Ideally off the collar, tied or pinned back in a manner that means it is not distracting or requiring constant touching or flicking.

Shoes

You can spend an awful lot of money on smart shoes! If you want to, consider Church's who have an excellent reputation. Other, less expensive, options include Loake or even Clark's. For undeniable value with quality and a huge range of classic styles, Samuel Windsor is good for shoes, I wouldn't necessarily buy clothes from there though. You should consider being able to walk quickly and a fair distance in any pair of shoes.For example, for ladies, stiletto heels are discouraged across all orders of dress. For ladies, classic leather court shoes or brogues are advised; M&S, John Lewis and Clarks all have a good range of options.

Shoes with suit?

• Colour: Black. Avoid patent for Sandhurst. You must be able to polish them and sole must match the show (no visibly contrasting sole when your feet are on the ground).

• Style: Absolutely must have laces. Oxfords are your best bet but brogues or monks are acceptable. Pointed shoes are unwelcome.

Female

• Style: no requirement to have laces or tassels; plain leather is advisable. Broguing or pattern is acceptable if it matches the main colour of the shoe.

Dress Code 2: Smart Casual (Formal/Amber/'Jacket and Tie')

Jacket: It should be of a formal cut similar to your suit jacket. As these can get expensive, at the ASE you can get away with wearing a Navy or charcoal suit jacket with light chinos. The kind of jackets that the Army approves of are absolute Winchester charity shop staples so definitely worth a look: navy with, or without, gold buttons; various tweeds (not too bright, please); grey wool etc. If you've gone with lighter chinos opt for a darker jacket and vice versa.

Shirt: Same rules apply as above.

Tie: You must wear one, ideally around your neck. If you wanted to experiment with a wool, woven or knitted tie do it now rather than with a suit. That said, same rules apply as above.

Trousers: Chinos are absolutely the best bet here, and you can't really go wrong with M&S for chinos. For Sandhurst, light beige colour and navy are advised. You’ll know they’re chinos and not (heaven forbid) jean-os because the pockets will be on the inside not stitched on like they are on jeans. I think the Sandhurst manual also says you can wear grey flannel trousers. I don’t think I’ve knowingly seen anyone wear those but that may show my limited social circles and lack of good-breeding…

Shoes: Given the colour palette of everything else, you may want brown ones. That said, black Oxfords are fine if that’s what you’ve got. Chelsea boots, brown brogues and even at the most informal end of acceptable; smart, brown leather boat shoes are all acceptable (these must have not have white or very light soles though). You must wear socks.

Female

Style: No tie required. As well as those described above, suede or leather court shoes, pumps or loafers are also acceptable.

Dress Code 3: Smart Casual (Informal/Green/'Planters')

Shirt: Long-sleeved, fully buttoned and'smart'. There is more latitude here, but it is completely acceptable to wear your formal shirt. A less formal Tattershall style 'country shirt' is also fine (this may have button cuffs and even a pocket). No Western shirts. NO HAWAIIAN SHIRTS. May be the time for check or stripes.

Trousers: Chinos still very much fine and expected. However, if you've always wanted to wear corduroy trousers (cords), now could be the time. You can also wear smart jeans, which essentially means; dark blue or black, no rips or obvious fading, neither baggy nor tight, definitely not skinny.

Shoes: As before (still no trainers). Timberland or military style boots are not acceptable.

Dress Code 4: Black Tie

Female

Dress: A black tie dress should be a prized and cherished possession, one you feel and look fabulous wearing. In the military, it is essential to remember that any Black Tie event will be with your colleagues and thus a few considerations. Low cut, high slit or cut away dresses are not acceptable. Shoulders should be covered (see below), as should knees (as a minimum) and ideally ankles. There is freedom of choice with material, colour, design and style for women, so it is even more important you consider how you wish to display your personality. In recognition of changing social and cultural perceptions, female dinner suits are now acceptable.

Accessories

Shoulders: if not covered by the dress, should be covered with a pashmina, bolero, scarf or equivalent. Freedom on jewellery and hair is permitted; however, if it is going to get in the way of you eating with poise and elegance then perhaps save it for a night with friends.

Male

Dinner Suit: It needs to be black or midnight blue, avoid any other blue, white, or velvet. If you haven't already got one you may want to hire it. There's a Moss Bros in Winchester. You will use it once at the ASE and once or twice at Sandhurst. Depending on what regiment you go to you may use it all of the time or barely ever, many black tie occasions for officers will be in Mess dress. If money is no object, there's also a Gieves & Hawkes in Winchester. Again, the charity shops of Winchester or further afield will have a few.

Shirt: Simple! In the military we wear a white Marcella shirt with Black Tie. Stay away from wing-collars which have specific connotations in the UK. If you haven't already got one, while you'll need one for Sandhurst a white, formal shirt will suffice for ASE.

Shoes: It's basically Black Oxfords (or a style very close to Oxfords) or bust. Brogues or monks are not acceptable. This is why it is more versatile just to buy Black Oxfords.

Accessories

• Cuff links and watch: As above.

• Tie: Black silk bow-tie which you'll tie yourself.

• Dress studs? Certainly not mandatory. Entirely acceptable.

• Cummerbund? Ditto.

I hope you've found this useful! Any questions, please use the contact details you will have received from your Candidate Support Manager.